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Hyperpigmentation explained: what causes dark spots and how to fade them

Hyperpigmentation — dark spots, uneven tone, melasma patches, leftover marks from old breakouts — is one of the most universal and frustrating skin concerns. It’s slow to appear, fast to multiply, and stubbornly resistant to most products that claim to fix it.

Here’s the honest, science-backed approach that actually works.

What is hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is any darkening of the skin caused by excess melanin — the pigment that gives your skin its colour. It appears when melanin-producing cells (melanocytes) go into overdrive, usually as a defence response to damage or hormones.

Once formed, the pigment can sit in different layers of your skin. The deeper it is, the longer it takes to fade.

The 4 main types of hyperpigmentation

1. Sun spots (solar lentigines)

Flat brown patches from cumulative UV damage. Most common on face, hands, chest, shoulders. Usually appear from 30s onwards.

2. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

The dark mark left after a pimple, scratch, or skin injury heals. More common and longer-lasting on deeper skin tones.

3. Melasma

Larger, symmetrical patches (often on cheeks, forehead, upper lip). Hormonally driven — pregnancy, birth control, hormonal shifts. Harder to treat than other forms.

4. Age spots (lentigines)

Distinct, small, darker spots from years of accumulated sun. Often called ‘liver spots’ historically.

What causes hyperpigmentation

  • UV exposure — the #1 cause for nearly every type
  • Hormonal changes — pregnancy, contraception, perimenopause, menopause
  • Inflammation — acne, eczema, irritation from over-exfoliating
  • Skin injuries — cuts, burns, picking spots
  • Heat — yes, even heat alone (without UV) can darken melasma
  • Certain medications — worth checking with your GP

The 5 actives that actually fade dark spots

1. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Reduces the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to skin cells. Brightens uneven tone over 8–12 weeks. Gentle, well-tolerated, suits all skin types.

2. Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

Powerful antioxidant that inhibits melanin production and brightens existing pigment. Best applied in the morning.

3. PDRN

Accelerates skin cell turnover, which helps pigmented cells shed and be replaced faster. Particularly effective for post-inflammatory pigmentation.

4. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Glycolic and lactic acid exfoliate the surface layer where pigment sits. Use sparingly — over-use damages the barrier and can worsen PIH.

5. Tranexamic acid

Specifically targets melasma. Works on the messaging that triggers pigmentation. Often recommended by dermatologists.

The protocol that works

Morning

  1. Gentle cleanse
  2. Vitamin C serum (if tolerated)
  3. Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid serum — our GlowSerum covers this
  4. Moisturiser
  5. SPF 50+, broad spectrum, reapplied every 2 hours when outdoors

Evening

  1. Double cleanse
  2. PDRN serum (PulseRenew) on clean dry skin — supports cell turnover
  3. Hydrating serum (GlowSerum)
  4. Moisturiser

What NOT to do

  • Skip SPF. Without sun protection, no pigmentation treatment works. Every fade product also makes your skin more sensitive to UV.
  • Over-exfoliate. Aggressive scrubbing or daily acids often makes pigmentation worse, especially PIH on deeper skin tones.
  • Pick at breakouts. Every pick = a new mark.
  • Expect overnight results. Pigmentation fades in 8–16 weeks minimum with consistent use.

When to see a derm

If your hyperpigmentation is severe, melasma is widespread, or topical treatments haven’t made progress after 12 weeks of consistent use — a dermatologist can offer prescription-strength options (hydroquinone, prescription retinoids, tranexamic acid orally) and in-clinic treatments (chemical peels, IPL, lasers).

What to expect with consistent use

  • Weeks 1–2: Better hydration, slightly more even tone
  • Weeks 4–6: Noticeable brightening, post-acne marks beginning to fade
  • Weeks 8–12: Sun spots lighten, melasma patches less prominent
  • Months 4–6: Cumulative tone evenness, photos show clear improvement

Start the protocol

The Skin Reset Kit includes both PulseRenew (PDRN for cell turnover) and GlowSerum (Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid for brightening) — the two pillars of a hyperpigmentation routine in one purchase.

For the simplest entry point, GlowSerum alone covers daily brightening and barrier support.

Have a specific pigmentation question? Email us with details and we’ll point you in the right direction.

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